NMM tip -  from Nuclealosaur Tips Archive

NMM Recipe

Recipe by Nuclealosaur Painting:

NMM tip – from Nuclealosaur Tips Archive

Once in a while we all get sick of using boltgun metal / leadbelcher to paint metal. In some cases using real metallic paint can make your mini look ‘cheap’ – so today I’m showing you guys how to execute the NMM technique, in a painless and quick way.

First off – I’m not a wet-blend artist, so my way of doing this is probably a cross between feathering and successive layering.

Tools / paints:
– White
– Grey
– Glaze medium (if not available, can use acrylic retarder, or even varnish as substitute)… or don’t use it at all

Let’s look at the elements of NMM first.
I always tell my staffs that dynamic is the most important element in miniature painting (some may disagree). So to execute NMM right, you need color dynamism, you need a clear distinction between

1. Shade
2. Mid tone
3. Highlight

With those 3 elements in mind, now we try to create a ‘seamless’ gradation to make everything look more believable. This is where glaze medium and brush technique come in:

Step1: The model is primed, base coated and shaded (preferably with darker color to bring out the depth)

Step2: I use grey+white+glaze medium + LOT of water….. the ratio is 1:1:1:2 and apply the mixture on the edges in the same manner as if you are doing edge highlighting. The difference is that you wipe about 60% of the paint off your brush and apply ‘wet’ paint on the model

If applied correctly, you should see a higher concentration of paint pooling when your brush left the surface – this is where glaze medium comes in: it slows down the drying time and improves the consistency of the paint.

Once you have a nice pool (may look nasty at first), now use that same brush to ‘pull’ the pool towards the edge. If you look at picture 2, you will see that I’ve pulled the paint towards the lower part of the barrel, and towards the top part of the gun’s body.

Once you’ve pulled the paint to the edge, you’ll see that it leaves a thin glaze on the surface. This is how the gradation begins.
If you repeat this a few more times you will get that ‘blended’ look

3. Now to add the highlight – I use white+some water and repeatedly dab it on the peak to imitate the shine efx (I only use white when painting glossy / solid object… not all objects shine, gotta remember that!)

You can use the ‘pool-drag’ technique with white too, but I prefer little dots… this really depends on what you’re painting of course.

4. For a smoother gradation – use a glaze / wash
(preferably the same color as the base coat) to reduce the contrast. If you’re painting a masterpiece (GD entry or a 1000$ worth mini), I recommend doing this and repeat the whole 1-2-3 steps over a few times. You will get a really really smooth transition between shade-mid-highlight.

I hope this is useful!


Nuke Arts

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